A popular, intricate and sustained climb that visits some of the trickier sections of the crag bypassed by the well-trodden VSs. Start below a series of narrow corners just left of a huge flake at the base of the wall.1) 5a, 26m. Move up cracks to a ledge and make a committing move up right into another small corner. Climb this, and its continuation to a belay at the junction with the red band of rock that crosses the face.2) 4c, 23m. Traverse right for around 8m to a steep groove. Climb the groove past a black stained hole and an overlap just above to a flake that leads left under an overhang to a slabby bay and a belay at its left-hand side.3) 5a, 12m. Move back right to the bottom of a wide, rounded flake-crack. Climb the crack strenuously to where it eases and move right to a belay below a leaning corner.4) 5a, 15m. Climb the leaning corner which is hard but well-protected, to a welcome jug on the left. The top is not far above. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A lovely route following a series of corners and cracks up the guts of the crag. Start to the left of a hugh flake leaning against the bottom of the crag at an obvious line of cracks and corners to a belay level with the rake. Pitch 2 traverse right here to the shallow groove, up this via a couple of pulls to some welcome jugs. From here a flake leads back leftwards to a belay above the last. The third pitch climbs the obvious rounded crack to the right of the belay and the final pitch follows the short corner to the right having a sting in the tail!
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