UKC

76m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular, intricate and sustained climb that visits some of the trickier sections of the crag bypassed by the well-trodden VSs. Start below a series of narrow corners just left of a huge flake at the base of the wall.
1) 5a, 26m. Move up cracks to a ledge and make a committing move up right into another small corner. Climb this, and its continuation to a belay at the junction with the red band of rock that crosses the face.
2) 4c, 23m. Traverse right for around 8m to a steep groove. Climb the groove past a black stained hole and an overlap just above to a flake that leads left under an overhang to a slabby bay and a belay at its left-hand side.
3) 5a, 12m. Move back right to the bottom of a wide, rounded flake-crack. Climb the crack strenuously to where it eases and move right to a belay below a leaning corner.
4) 5a, 15m. Climb the leaning corner which is hard but well-protected, to a welcome jug on the left. The top is not far above. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Kernow, West Country Climbs, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics, Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist, Adventure ticklist 2018, HVS Cornwall, Target Routes 2019/2020

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kiddie68 12 Oct Show βeta
βeta: Guidebook slightly confusing on pitch 2, the prose being more accurate than the topo. After the hole and flake, continue up another flake and left under the obvious overhangs and up to the ledge.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Guidebook slightly confusing on pitch 2, the prose being more accurate than the topo. After the hole and flake, continue up another flake and left under the obvious overhangs and up to the ledge.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 103
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 107
Votes cast 98
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Saxon Direct

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kenidjack Cliffs)
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