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Rockfax Description
A popular, intricate and sustained climb that visits some of the trickier sections of the crag bypassed by the well-trodden VSs. Start below a series of narrow corners just left of a huge flake at the base of the wall.
1) 5a, 26m. Move up cracks to a ledge and make a committing move up right into another small corner. Climb this, and its continuation to a belay at the junction with the red band of rock that crosses the face.
2) 4c, 23m. Traverse right for around 8m to a steep groove. Climb the groove past a black stained hole and an overlap just above to a flake that leads left under an overhang to a slabby bay and a belay at its left-hand side.
3) 5a, 12m. Move back right to the bottom of a wide, rounded flake-crack. Climb the crack strenuously to where it eases and move right to a belay below a leaning corner.
4) 5a, 15m. Climb the leaning corner which is hard but well-protected, to a welcome jug on the left. The top is not far above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A lovely route following a series of corners and cracks up the guts of the crag. Start to the left of a hugh flake leaning against the bottom of the crag at an obvious line of cracks and corners to a belay level with the rake. Pitch 2 traverse right here to the shallow groove, up this via a couple of pulls to some welcome jugs. From here a flake leads back leftwards to a belay above the last. The third pitch climbs the obvious rounded crack to the right of the belay and the final pitch follows the short corner to the right having a sting in the tail!


Kernow, West Country Climbs, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics, Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist, Adventure ticklist 2018, HVS Cornwall, Target Routes 2019/2020


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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 101
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 105
Votes cast 96
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Here to there

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Carn Gowla)