UKC

30m.

Rockfax Description
A direct on Insectitude and relatively popular. Well protected.
1) 4c, 9m. Climb the wide crack to a small overhang. Make a long reach to gain good holds and jams. Pull up to the large belay ledge at the faultline just above.
2) 4a, 20m. Climb the chimney and corner-crack above, moving left just below the top to avoid loose ground.
Jung Spice, HVS 5a - Tackle the slab and steep groove on the left to a ledge. Finish up the arete. © Rockfax

FA. K.Turner, G.A.Jenkin 1984.

Ticklists

WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , Dorset Routes that are worth doing

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User Date Notes
JimOakleyAdventures 26 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Two stakes at top in align provide a simple 35m abseil down to the base. Avoid spring tide and no more than 1m SW winds ! Easy start followed by crux at 6m with fully protectable CAM & nut to pullover the difficulty. If your under 5’8” - good luck ! The rest is all good with last 2 m at top going left to avoid loose rocks. Stakes are 15m back from top. Using 60m doubles - fine
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Two stakes at top in align provide a simple 35m abseil down to the base. Avoid spring tide and no more than 1m SW winds ! Easy start followed by crux at 6m with fully protectable CAM & nut to pullover the difficulty. If your under 5’8” - good luck ! The rest is all good with last 2 m at top going left to avoid loose rocks. Stakes are 15m back from top. Using 60m doubles - fine
fatwallawoods 15 Oct, 2017 Show βeta
βeta: Hard and committing move to complete the first pitch. Place your gear, reach, trust the finger jams, get you feet high and just go for it! Second pitch is great, safe and very amenable climbing for the Ruckle, good introduction to the environment along this cliff
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hard and committing move to complete the first pitch. Place your gear, reach, trust the finger jams, get you feet high and just go for it! Second pitch is great, safe and very amenable climbing for the Ruckle, good introduction to the environment along this cliff
Ciderslider 29 Sep, 2012 Show βeta
βeta: Why has nobody commented or voted on this route - it's a hidden gem.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Why has nobody commented or voted on this route - it's a hidden gem.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 20
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Freda

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)

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