UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Climb The Tool past the faultline to its small overhang, then traverse diagonally up and right below a slanting overlap into a beautiful crack and bridging corner. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012

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Route of Interest
Gypsy

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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