UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good route that maintains interest throughout. The pegs are old but there is good gear available to back them up. Start at a small corner behind the highest boulder. Move up the right-leaning corner for 5m, then pull straight up through the bulge to gain a horizontal break. Climb the thin black streak above (two pegs) to the main faultline. Move right and up through a bulge to a corner. Climb up and leftwards around an arete to enter and finish up a corner. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley, J.Preston 05/Sep/1986.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Climber_Bill 13 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic first pitch and the second is short but still good. Personally felt the pegs on the first ptich looked quite corroded in the cracks; might take a fall, might not. Although their condition does not make the climbing harder, it makes the route a bit bolder.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic first pitch and the second is short but still good. Personally felt the pegs on the first ptich looked quite corroded in the cracks; might take a fall, might not. Although their condition does not make the climbing harder, it makes the route a bit bolder.
tomrainbow 18 Jun, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: An excellent first pitch with fantastic rock on the crux wall - the section above the fault is tricky to begin but soon eases, this would be a three star route if the difficulties went on for longer.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An excellent first pitch with fantastic rock on the crux wall - the section above the fault is tricky to begin but soon eases, this would be a three star route if the difficulties went on for longer.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 10
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Barracuda

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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