UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A varied route starting under the left end of a long roof at 10m.
1) 5b, 15m. Climb to the roof then take a crack on the left to the faultline. Hanging belay.
2) 5b, 20m. Follow a groove to a high roof. Swing right and over it leftwards finishing via a crack to the top. © Rockfax

FA. A.Strapcans, Gordon Jenkin 31.3.1979. FA. (Pitch 2) Crispin Waddy, J.Vlasto 28.3.1985.

Feedback

User Date Notes
ian bryant 30 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: steady 5b all the way with decent gear. i guess it gets e2 because it's quite steep all the way up. some very suspect rock on roof of 2nd pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: steady 5b all the way with decent gear. i guess it gets e2 because it's quite steep all the way up. some very suspect rock on roof of 2nd pitch.
geoffgo21 13 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Glad this is now E2 as it felt hard at E1, then it was a cold feb day and my fingers were frozen so can't comment on quality.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Glad this is now E2 as it felt hard at E1, then it was a cold feb day and my fingers were frozen so can't comment on quality.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 5
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Followed
Lead
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ximenes

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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