UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

40m. The difficulties are concentrated in the strenuous start, after which the climbing eases.

40m. Start 2m to the left of the start of Strongbow below a thin crack. From good finger slots below the crack climb to jugs at 4 metres (small/micro cams essential and can be hard to place). Continue steeply to the ledge. Traverse left to climb Gypsy to the break. Continue straight up with a slight step right to avoid loose rock then straight up over two small roofs. Finish rightwards.

Tom Dale and Ed Babington 20/May/2023.

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Route of Interest
Melpomene

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)

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