UKC Logbook - 'Gypsy'

33m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Well travelled and protectable climbing, sustained but never too desperate. Start below a slim, right-facing corner in the smooth face below the main faultline.
1) 5b, 16m. Pull up strenuously onto a ledge and move up a corner to an overhang. Climb another overhang and the slim corner/rib to the faultline and belay.
2) 5b, 22m. Step right and pull over the overhang into an open groove. Follow the groove to an overhang before moving right and climbing to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 29.10.1967. Pitch 2 used to be protected by two pegs which were removed by a falling leader (who survived)..

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012) , Definitive *** Swanage

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User	Date		Notes
Ed Babs	4 May, 2024	Show βeta βeta: Large detached block at the top that can be skirted on the right.
Show beta βeta: Large detached block at the top that can be skirted on the right.
Tall Oak	29 Aug, 2023	Show βeta βeta: There is now a stuck sling now thread in the lower part. Best be chopped (or used). Depends on your style. We couldn\'t get this out.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: There is now a stuck sling now thread in the lower part. Best be chopped (or used). Depends on your style. We couldn't get this out.
ian bryant	24 Oct, 2005	Show βeta βeta: i'm amazed that 7 out of 17 votes cast to date think this is more like 5c than 5b! i thought it was one of the easiest e2s i've ever done and whilst having sustained moves they were interspersed with good rests - the climbing was definitely no more than 5b and only that because of it's sustained and fairly steep nature, or was i just having a good day?! good route either way.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: i'm amazed that 7 out of 17 votes cast to date think this is more like 5c than 5b! i thought it was one of the easiest e2s i've ever done and whilst having sustained moves they were interspersed with good rests - the climbing was definitely no more than 5b and only that because of it's sustained and fairly steep nature, or was i just having a good day?! good route either way.