UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

33m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Well travelled and protectable climbing, sustained but never too desperate. Start below a slim, right-facing corner in the smooth face below the main faultline.
1) 5b, 16m. Pull up strenuously onto a ledge and move up a corner to an overhang. Climb another overhang and the slim corner/rib to the faultline and belay.
2) 5b, 22m. Step right and pull over the overhang into an open groove. Follow the groove to an overhang before moving right and climbing to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 29.10.1967. Pitch 2 used to be protected by two pegs which were removed by a falling leader (who survived)..

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 29 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: There is now a stuck sling now thread in the lower part. Best be chopped (or used). Depends on your style. We couldn\'t get this out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is now a stuck sling now thread in the lower part. Best be chopped (or used). Depends on your style. We couldn't get this out.
ian bryant 24 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i'm amazed that 7 out of 17 votes cast to date think this is more like 5c than 5b! i thought it was one of the easiest e2s i've ever done and whilst having sustained moves they were interspersed with good rests - the climbing was definitely no more than 5b and only that because of it's sustained and fairly steep nature, or was i just having a good day?! good route either way.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i'm amazed that 7 out of 17 votes cast to date think this is more like 5c than 5b! i thought it was one of the easiest e2s i've ever done and whilst having sustained moves they were interspersed with good rests - the climbing was definitely no more than 5b and only that because of it's sustained and fairly steep nature, or was i just having a good day?! good route either way.

Logged Ascents

313 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 64 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 68
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 67
Votes cast 66
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ximenes

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

Loading Notifications...