Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A fairly popular expedition that provides a good alternative to Bottomless Buttress. Start at a crack in the wall around 25m right of the base of the abseil line, below a huge roof.
1) 4b, 21m. Climb up the crack and then move leftwards to a corner below the roof. Climb the corner, over a bulge and traverse left to a belay on a big jammed boulder.
2) 4a, 18m. Climb up a groove for 5m and move left to ledges. Move along the ledges to finish up a crack in a wide groove. © Rockfax
Ticklists
WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , Orange Spot Swanage , SW Climbs - Swanage , High Quality Adventure routes , Boulder Ruckle top six achievable climbs - Single days worth?
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ssutton | 9 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Jackdaw nest with chicks by the belay stance - please avoid until mid June. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Jackdaw nest with chicks by the belay stance - please avoid until mid June. |
||||
| Rosalie1993 | 14 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: very chossy | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: very chossy |
||||
| Iain Weymouth | 20 Mar, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: A very good route with good protection. P1: got a 3" cam above the traverse to lessen the second's pendulum potential. Unique wedged block belay makes rope organisation a breeze. P2: good rock, shame about the grassy rockery in the middle as it would have another star. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: A very good route with good protection. P1: got a 3" cam above the traverse to lessen the second's pendulum potential. Unique wedged block belay makes rope organisation a breeze. P2: good rock, shame about the grassy rockery in the middle as it would have another star. |
||||
| Jonno30 | 8 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Could only find a single post at the top after doing some gardening! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Could only find a single post at the top after doing some gardening! |
||||
| Ciderslider | 28 Oct, 2012 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good little route well worth doing | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Good little route well worth doing |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Wall Street
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Cormorant Ledge)