UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

30m.

Rockfax Description
A good pitch. Climb the large flake-crack past the faultline to a ledge on the left. From the ledge, move leftwards to flakes and climb these, and the wall to the right, trending rightwards to the top. © Rockfax

A Davies & S Arnold 30/Sep/1979.

Ticklists

WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , Dorset Routes that are worth doing

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fresher 17 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: This is a brilliant HVS on solid rock, with a delicate traverse and enjoyable finishing groove.
Show beta
βeta: This is a brilliant HVS on solid rock, with a delicate traverse and enjoyable finishing groove.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 14
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lightning Wall

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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