Rockfax Description
Good gear but care is need with the rock in places. Start 6m right of the base of the big corner.
1) 4c, 18m. Climb the right-trending crack on good undercuts to a bulge. Pass this on large holds and continue to a roof. Traverse right under a hanging block and climb up to a belay.
2) 4c, 20m. Gain the face/corner above the faultline and climb the corner-cracks to a roof. Move left via a ledge on the arete and climb a second set of cracks to a second roof. Move right to the original crack and exit. Climbing straight up the crack is E1. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb starts 6m to the east of Koo-Koo.
1) 4c. Climb the large right-trending crack on good undercuts to a bulge. Pass this on good holds and continue to the roof. Traverse right under the frightening block and climb up to the break. Difficult nuts at the belay.
2) Gain the face above the break and climb the corner cracks to a roof. Move left via a ledge on the arĂȘte and climb a second set of cracks to a second roof. Move right to the original crack and exit.
WARNING: Route is called RIP for a good reason. A lot of loose blocks, especially at the top-out. Tread carefully and test everything before loading it.
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Lulworth)