45m, 2 pitches.
Rockfall has changed the 1st pitch to 5a. 2nd pitch steep 4c.
Ticklists
South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| flash635 | 18 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: After the rockfall the traverse on Pitch 1 is harder than 5a. If you are physically so small you can fit through the gap to exit the chimney at right then the pitch would still be 4a/b. If you are average size and wearing a helmet you would need to perform a no-feet hand traverse (feet would be hanging in space) on the flat quartzy finger break, duck under the projecting overhanging flake and then perform a a tricky mantelshelf onto a completely flat, dusty ledge. You can protect it well with small cams, so it might be HVS as its well protected and safe, but if you come off you are going to have to lower all the way to the ground or prussik to get back on. Or do what I did: put a small cam in the horizontal finger break as far to the to the right as you can, clip a long sling with 1 overhand knot in the middle and use it as a foot sling for 1 pt aid (C0). Then its still VS and makes it a bit different! Top pitch is good and interesting for VS - bold pull at 4c through big flakes rightwards then plenty of gear in an easy (HS) groove. Just don't expect the bottom pitch to be the VS it is given in the guidebook. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: After the rockfall the traverse on Pitch 1 is harder than 5a. If you are physically so small you can fit through the gap to exit the chimney at right then the pitch would still be 4a/b. If you are average size and wearing a helmet you would need to perform a no-feet hand traverse (feet would be hanging in space) on the flat quartzy finger break, duck under the projecting overhanging flake and then perform a a tricky mantelshelf onto a completely flat, dusty ledge. You can protect it well with small cams, so it might be HVS as its well protected and safe, but if you come off you are going to have to lower all the way to the ground or prussik to get back on. Or do what I did: put a small cam in the horizontal finger break as far to the to the right as you can, clip a long sling with 1 overhand knot in the middle and use it as a foot sling for 1 pt aid (C0). Then its still VS and makes it a bit different! Top pitch is good and interesting for VS - bold pull at 4c through big flakes rightwards then plenty of gear in an easy (HS) groove. Just don't expect the bottom pitch to be the VS it is given in the guidebook. |
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Route of Interest
Jo
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)