The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
Good climbing on the traverse across the cave lip and on the upper wall. Start on the left of a massive block in an alcove. Climb direct to a crack (on Jasper) then make a hard swing left on the lip of the roof to a crack. Climb direct past the faultline to eventually reach a large flake. Finish boldly up the headwall to a horizontal crack finishing rightwards over a strip roof. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 29/Nov/1990.
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Grade: E4 5c ***
(Boulder Ruckle)