UKC

30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An exposed climb in a good position. The second pitch is poor.
1) 5b, 15m. Climb a short groove to the right of a pointed block to reach its capping roof. Move out left and up before climbing back right to a hanging arete. Climb to the faultline (poor belay - better to move right and belay in the corner of Snowdrop).
2) 5b, 15m. Pull over a roof and climb a crack, just right of the arete, to a roof. Step left onto the arete and follow it to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley, Crispin Waddy 31/Aug/1986.

Feedback

User Date Notes
matt perks 21 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This route is well worth doing. The first pitch is pretty steady although I thought the arete was a bit too precarious for waltzing. The belay at the fault is semi-hanging and requires gear in the crack above the roof for it to be bombproof (you can place this with your feet on the fault ledge). There aren't really any 5c moves on the second pitch but it is steep and exposed until past the roof.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route is well worth doing. The first pitch is pretty steady although I thought the arete was a bit too precarious for waltzing. The belay at the fault is semi-hanging and requires gear in the crack above the roof for it to be bombproof (you can place this with your feet on the fault ledge). There aren't really any 5c moves on the second pitch but it is steep and exposed until past the roof.

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High E3
Mid E3
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 5
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gypsy

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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