A truly fantastic pitch. Sustained, well protected and with a pressing crux move high on the wall. Start below the very thin line of cracks in a slight depression on the upper wall and just right of the rope sling at the midway break on Mother Africa. Move up the wall on good holds to a narrow ledge. Harder climbing past white blotches gains the horizontal break above. Sustained climbing through the bulge and up the line of thin cracks leads past a jug (but without much respite) to another bulge. A hard couple of moves up and right past a peg gain a thread and the final short wall. © Rockfax
FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 12/Jun/1983.
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Grade: E5 6b ***
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