UKC

45m.

Rockfax Description
A truly fantastic pitch. Sustained, well protected and with a pressing crux move high on the wall. Start below the very thin line of cracks in a slight depression on the upper wall and just right of the rope sling at the midway break on Mother Africa. Move up the wall on good holds to a narrow ledge. Harder climbing past white blotches gains the horizontal break above. Sustained climbing through the bulge and up the line of thin cracks leads past a jug (but without much respite) to another bulge. A hard couple of moves up and right past a peg gain a thread and the final short wall. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 12/Jun/1983.

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Trad climbs for sport climbers , West Country Climbs , Swanage wild pumpfests , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , SW Climbs - Swanage , Dorset weekender , Ultimate E5 ticklist , Soft Touches

Feedback

User Date Notes
Climber_Bill 25 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: E4 or E5? Many a pint drunk discussing this. Harder than Mother Africa, well more sustained really. Who cares, it is a fantastic pitch, as good as any E4/E5 in the country.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: E4 or E5? Many a pint drunk discussing this. Harder than Mother Africa, well more sustained really. Who cares, it is a fantastic pitch, as good as any E4/E5 in the country.
Si Witcher 8 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Great gear and 1 tricky move. One of the best E4s around.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great gear and 1 tricky move. One of the best E4s around.

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 25
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Fabulous Professor Panic

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Hedbury)

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