Rockfax Description
A big, atmospheric line that follows the right-bounding fissure above the small zawn. The start is sometimes damp and needs time to dry out.
1) 5b, 20m. Move into the back of the zawn (ledge) and climb outwards on the left wall (looking in) to gain a bottomless chimney and corner above - this leads to the faultline.
2) 5a, 22m. Climb the crack steeply past a roof. Continue in the same line to the top, finishing on a solid clean ledge. © Rockfax
FA. G.Smith, Richard Crewe 3.10.1971. FFA. Howard Lancashire 03/Oct/1971.
Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying
User | Date | Notes | ||
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ian bryant | 21 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: do the soul sacrifice start, it's much cleaner and better climbing. the corner crack is quite dirty in places and the belay ledge is totally caked in guano. agree that the move over the roof should be 5b - i tried to turn it on the right but ended up coming back at the peg. reasonable gear all the way though. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: do the soul sacrifice start, it's much cleaner and better climbing. the corner crack is quite dirty in places and the belay ledge is totally caked in guano. agree that the move over the roof should be 5b - i tried to turn it on the right but ended up coming back at the peg. reasonable gear all the way though. |
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psicobloc | 7 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Did the alterative start up Soul Sacrifice so can’t comment on the first pitch but I thought the move over the roof on the second pitch was hard for 5a. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Did the alterative start up Soul Sacrifice so can’t comment on the first pitch but I thought the move over the roof on the second pitch was hard for 5a. |
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Haggis | 6 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: Do it in 3 pitches at least! 1 - Traverse to the back of the cave 5c 2 - Up and across the roof to a hanging belay just past the end of the roof 5b 3 - Follow the crackline to the top 5b Very interesting route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Do it in 3 pitches at least! 1 - Traverse to the back of the cave 5c 2 - Up and across the roof to a hanging belay just past the end of the roof 5b 3 - Follow the crackline to the top 5b Very interesting route. |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)