UKC Logbook - 'Wide Awake in America'

38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Two contrasting pitches - a hard crack and a tough headwall. The first pitch has lost a crucial hold. Start at a short, deep groove 5m left of Finale Groove.
1) 6b?, 18m. Climb the groove to a rest on a slab. Powerful moves through a bulge lead to a section where holds have come off, which may be harder. Climb the hand-crack to a belay.
2) 6b, 20m. Step left and then up to a ledge on the right. Move directly up to the headwall and make sequency moves (two pegs) to a good hold. Easier ground leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley, A Blakely 11/Dec/1984.

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User	Date		Notes
Si Witcher	19 Jun, 2006	Show βeta βeta: This boils down to a hard, fingery move to get past the first peg and stand up on the headwall.
Show beta βeta: This boils down to a hard, fingery move to get past the first peg and stand up on the headwall.
matt perks	12 May, 2005	Show βeta βeta: I followed Woody up this today. Good effort mate! The first pitch is outrageously good at about E4 6a with good gear. Pitch 2 pulls onto the wall left of the belay as described then trends up left to a hands-off rest on the footledge. There are no pegs on this bit but after getting established above the fault the climbing is alright. The gear at the ledge is okay. Above the ledge is a short overhanging grey wall then the headwall proper. The first peg is visible at the bottom of the headwall. The second peg is a body length higher up. Both pegs are in good condition (5/05). If the placements are good (?) then this is not too serious for E6. If I have understood the CC guide correctly it should be possible to climb this route to the footledge and then finish up Headstone at E4? overall.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I followed Woody up this today. Good effort mate! The first pitch is outrageously good at about E4 6a with good gear. Pitch 2 pulls onto the wall left of the belay as described then trends up left to a hands-off rest on the footledge. There are no pegs on this bit but after getting established above the fault the climbing is alright. The gear at the ledge is okay. Above the ledge is a short overhanging grey wall then the headwall proper. The first peg is visible at the bottom of the headwall. The second peg is a body length higher up. Both pegs are in good condition (5/05). If the placements are good (?) then this is not too serious for E6. If I have understood the CC guide correctly it should be possible to climb this route to the footledge and then finish up Headstone at E4? overall.