UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

36m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic crack-line which is sustained, athletic and protectable all the way. Start 10m right of the big corner below the line. It starts from a lower level and needs a low tide to reach.
1) 5c, 18m. Climb the crack and strenuously gain an overhanging corner which leads to the faultline.
2) 5b, 18m. Pull through the roof above and move up to another one. Step right and over the roof then continue up the right-hand of two grooves. At the top step left to an exit scramble. © Rockfax

FA. G.Smith, Richard Crewe 4.9.1971. FFA. Kevin Turner, Nick Buckley 1977.

Ticklists

Swanage A-Z , West Country Climbs , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , SW Climbs - Swanage , Dorset weekender , Cool Names , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)

Feedback

User Date Notes
ian bryant 13 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: seems sensibly graded at e2 5c to me - very strenuous to get through the first roof with moves that certainly felt a grade harder than the many other 5bs i've done at swanage. the 2nd pitch continues quite steeply too and is never VS as suggested above!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: seems sensibly graded at e2 5c to me - very strenuous to get through the first roof with moves that certainly felt a grade harder than the many other 5bs i've done at swanage. the 2nd pitch continues quite steeply too and is never VS as suggested above!
daveycrocket 19 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree with Kevin above, its easier than expected, and theres surprisingly good foot ledges on the left. Great line but only E2-5B.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd agree with Kevin above, its easier than expected, and theres surprisingly good foot ledges on the left. Great line but only E2-5B.
kevin stephens 6 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: ANother route that should be enjoyed as one long pitch, providing you use 60m ropes, all this about knee pads (see above and Chris Craggs book) is not the best way to climb the crack, step out R and get in position to layback it. Even better than many 3 star routes at Swanage.
Show beta
βeta: ANother route that should be enjoyed as one long pitch, providing you use 60m ropes, all this about knee pads (see above and Chris Craggs book) is not the best way to climb the crack, step out R and get in position to layback it. Even better than many 3 star routes at Swanage.
ap 15 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: felt about that to me
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: felt about that to me

Logged Ascents

111 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 71 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 28
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Peccary

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)

Loading Notifications...