UKC

Restricted Access

Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:  

  • No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.

  • Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.

  • Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.

  • Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

  • Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

Rockfax Description
An exceptional problem with the lower section involving highly technical slab magic (even to get off the ground). Starting from the fine-grained hold, elevate to a good edge and continue with still-fluffable climbing to grasp the 'dog's dick' and top.
. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The best slab in Devon? Path Slab.

Murray Dale.

Ticklists

Bovey Woods , Devon Bouldering (with a few honorary problems from Cornwall) , Bovey Woods 3 Stars (F7A & Under) , MoorMan Magic

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Bovey Woods

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Voting
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Were You Here? (Wish Low)

Grade: f7A ***
(Hound Tor)

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