An excellent new sports venue with a mix of grades. The upper crag is non-tidal and gives steep climbing on compact rock, like a miniature version of Foxhole.
The lower crag is accessible for about 2 hours either side of low tide and dries quickly, providing steep climbing on generally good holds and perfect rock. The whole place is a sheltered suntrap in winter, with very little seepage, and in summer the sun moves across crags, so you can climb in sun or shade.
Approach: From the NT car park at Southgate walk east along the road as far as Bosco