A classic long mountain route. The climbing is predominantly around VD with only one short hard section that can be well protected. Start at a slight rib just left of the long crack-line of The Central Route.
1) 13m. Climb up the slight rib then head up and right to a belay with a smooth-looking wide crack/chimney on the right.
2) 10m. Tackle the smooth wide crack/chimney to emerge on a good ledge and belay.
3) 12m. Climb leftwards up the wall to a belay on spikes in a wide crack-line.
4) 17m. Continue up the chimney/crack-line to a long grassy ledge on the right. Go slightly down along this ledge for around 8m to a belay under a steep crack.
5) 4b, 16m. Ascend the steep and well-worn crack with difficulty to easier-angled ground. Follow this leftwards to a belay at a pinnacle leaning against the crag.
6) 22m. Traverse left along the grassy ledge and up a crack system to a short chimney. At its top, move up a slabby wall before traversing left, past a corner to a good ledge and a belay.
7) 24m. The corner/groove on the right is followed until an exit can be made leftwards giving access to easier ground and belay. Scrambling remains to the summit of the buttress. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
One the of great classic buttress routes of the Lakes. Starts just left of the foot of the buttress below a chimney. 1) 25m. Climb an open groove then a narrow offwidth chimney to a big ledge. 2) 30m. Make a tricky move up off the ledge then move left into the open groove line until an exit back right can be made onto a good ledge below a steep crack. 3) 30m. Climb the steep crack followed by some bold moves across the slab on the left and a traverse into a steep right facing corner (possible belay). Thin moves up the corner and the chimney above lead to a stance. 4) 25m. Move either left or right and climb easier ground to the top of the buttress. © ROCKFAX
T Shaw G H Craig GR West C Hargreaves & L J Oppenheimer May/1902.
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