UKC Logbook - 'Bowfell Buttress'

110m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic long mountain route. The climbing is predominantly around VD with only one short hard section that can be well protected. Start at a slight rib just left of the long crack-line of The Central Route.
1) 13m. Climb up the slight rib then head up and right to a belay with a smooth-looking wide crack/chimney on the right.
2) 10m. Tackle the smooth wide crack/chimney to emerge on a good ledge and belay.
3) 12m. Climb leftwards up the wall to a belay on spikes in a wide crack-line.
4) 17m. Continue up the chimney/crack-line to a long grassy ledge on the right. Go slightly down along this ledge for around 8m to a belay under a steep crack.
5) 4b, 16m. Ascend the steep and well-worn crack with difficulty to easier-angled ground. Follow this leftwards to a belay at a pinnacle leaning against the crag.
6) 22m. Traverse left along the grassy ledge and up a crack system to a short chimney. At its top, move up a slabby wall before traversing left, past a corner to a good ledge and a belay.
7) 24m. The corner/groove on the right is followed until an exit can be made leftwards giving access to easier ground and belay. Scrambling remains to the summit of the buttress. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One the of great classic buttress routes of the Lakes. Starts just left of the foot of the buttress below a chimney. 1) 25m. Climb an open groove then a narrow offwidth chimney to a big ledge. 2) 30m. Make a tricky move up off the ledge then move left into the open groove line until an exit back right can be made onto a good ledge below a steep crack. 3) 30m. Climb the steep crack followed by some bold moves across the slab on the left and a traverse into a steep right facing corner (possible belay). Thin moves up the corner and the chimney above lead to a stance. 4) 25m. Move either left or right and climb easier ground to the top of the buttress. © ROCKFAX

T Shaw G H Craig GR West C Hargreaves & L J Oppenheimer May/1902.

Ticklists

Classic Rock , UK's best Diffs and V.diffs , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , High Quality Adventure routes , Welcome to CUMC , FRCC Mega Classics , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , The Long Routes , The best the lakes has to offer for mere mortals (because it's not always as wet as kez thinks) , The Big Easy Mountain Route Club , Nuts of Legends , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Lake District Classic Rock Challenge , Mountain Rock , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3 , 2020/21 Trips , Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Lakes 2022 , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , 2022 , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Lakes ticklist , Lake District Ultimate Ticklist , Chasing Stars across the UK

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User	Date		Notes
Kryank	16 Sep, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Amazing climb strung pitch 1 & 2 together along with 3 & 4, I lead 1,2,5,7 and Robin lead 3,4,6 the awkward 5th pitch wasn’t as bad as I thought, just commit to the moves, I messed around placing gear and down climbed to the belay then when I committed to the moves it was fine.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Amazing climb strung pitch 1 & 2 together along with 3 & 4, I lead 1,2,5,7 and Robin lead 3,4,6 the awkward 5th pitch wasn’t as bad as I thought, just commit to the moves, I messed around placing gear and down climbed to the belay then when I committed to the moves it was fine.
Angry Bird	27 Aug, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Land's End Long Climb is a sandbag at VDiff... ...Bowfell Buttress isn't. The 'Difficult' Crack was much more straightforward than one might have been led to believe from comments herein. The chimney of the first pitch, bold moves at the beginning of the second, and the stride across at the top of the third (as described) were more noteworthy.
Show beta βeta: Land's End Long Climb is a sandbag at VDiff... ...Bowfell Buttress isn't. The 'Difficult' Crack was much more straightforward than one might have been led to believe from comments herein. The chimney of the first pitch, bold moves at the beginning of the second, and the stride across at the top of the third (as described) were more noteworthy.
Ken Taylor	18 May, 2019	Show βeta βeta: It's a sandbag at VD. Most of it is but the steep crack is disproportionately hard, although gear is good.
Show beta βeta: It's a sandbag at VD. Most of it is but the steep crack is disproportionately hard, although gear is good.
Rog Wilko	Jun, 1995	Show βeta βeta: This is a really enjoyable route, but needs to be graded "Traditional V. Diff.", meaning expect anything up to about 4b!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: This is a really enjoyable route, but needs to be graded "Traditional V. Diff.", meaning expect anything up to about 4b!