The eye-catching crack-line that shoots straight up past the right-hand side of the overhang is an authentic mountaineering experience The climbing is sustained and on generally clean rock. Start at the crack-line that heads up to the right-hand side of the prominent roof.
1) 4c, 30m. Take the crack to below the overhang. Gain the slim chimney with difficulty and climb it to easier territory and a belay on spikes.
2) 4b, 23m. Move left and climb the slim face on crisp rock to an easing. The short rib to the left leads to a grassy ledge and block belay.
3) 4b, 22m. Move out left to a hidden crack and follow it to enter a squarecut corner/recess. Climb this with a deviation out right midway, to a large ledge and block belays
4) 4a, 27m. Traverse to the left round an arete and up to some wedged blocks. Go to the left of the blocks and up a slab to below a thin crack in a narrow wall. Climb excellent thin crack to finish. © Rockfax
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