UKC

Climbs 212
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces W

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Bram Crag Wall © Seymore Butt

Crag features

A fine-granite quarry close to Castle Rock in St. Johns in the Vale. From a distance the quarry looks dangerously loose but closer inspection reveals some good solid areas of rock. Many of the routes when they were first put up were a mixture of trad and occasional home made bolt hangers. Many upper tier routes are hard to protect with trad gear and most have now been retro-bolted.

WARNING: September 2018 - rockfall reported at the far right hand end of the upper tier, routes around the area of false profit.  There is reportedly some loose blocks still 'attached' to the crag which may fall so either avoid or use caution.

Not an aesthetic crag but good slab climbing and accessible for a quick hit.

Approach notes

Park in a layby roughly 100m north of the quarry entrance (if full there are two more laybys roughly 300m north and 250m south) opposite a shortcut into the woods to the quarry track. Follow the shortcuts and quarry track up the hill until a grassy path leads off left onto the top of the grass ridge where the whole quarry is visible.

To get to the lower tier, rather than taking the grassy path, stay on the quarry track into the south quarry and head to the far corner where you can descend to the lower tier.

Please note, the quarry is privately owned with access required at all times. As such please DO NOT park in quarry entrance and be considerate of crag rules.

Restricted Access

Anyone climbing in the quarry does so at their own risk. The landowner wants to make visiting climbers aware that this is a quarry with the associated dangers that come with it - in particular the potential for loose rock.

Access is permitted to experienced recreational climbers on the following conditions and continued access is reliant on climbers respecting them:

  • No children
  • No novices
  • No instructed groups
  • Publication of guidebook information should be with the permission of the landowner.
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