A fine-granite quarry close to Castle Rock in St. Johns in the Vale. From a distance the quarry looks dangerously loose but closer inspection reveals some good solid areas of rock. Many of the routes when they were first put up were a mixture of trad and occasional home made bolt hangers. Many upper tier routes are hard to protect with trad gear and most have now been retro-bolted.
WARNING: Rock falls (small and large) are frequently reported at the Quarry, extreme care must be taken when choosing routes.
January 2024 - a large collapse has been reported in "The Danger Zone" in the area of Cool Hand Luke. The report suggests that this whole area is now even more unstable that it was before and is probably best avoided altogether.
June 2023 - bolt and chunk of rock fell from Bramcrag wall sector on route 'Middle Earth', injuring climber who fell onto 2nd Fixe glue-in bolt on route before hitting the deck.
July 2022 - the rockfall in the Centre Parc area (from 2018/19??) that partially obstructed the path has extended with another fall. On 8/7/22 there was bent grass under a 2 tin block that was still green. Considerable numbers of large blocks above this area but still attached look ready to follow. Great care should be taken accessing routes behind the drop zone.
June 2022 - small rock fall in the Bram Crag Wall area, climber hit on leg by "frying pan" sized lump of rock that detached itself from an undercling without being touched.
September 2018 - major rockfall reported at the far right hand end of the upper tier, routes around the area of false profit. There is reportedly some loose blocks still 'attached' to the crag which may fall so either avoid or use caution.
Not an aesthetic crag but good slab climbing and accessible for a quick hit.
Park in a layby roughly 100m north of the quarry entrance (if full there are two more laybys roughly 300m north and 250m south) opposite a shortcut into the woods to the quarry track. Follow the shortcuts and quarry track up the hill until a grassy path leads off left onto the top of the grass ridge where the whole quarry is visible.
To get to the lower tier, rather than taking the grassy path, stay on the quarry track into the south quarry and head to the far corner where you can descend to the lower tier.
Please note, the quarry is privately owned with access required at all times. As such please DO NOT park in quarry entrance and be considerate of crag rules.