Climbs 213
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces W
Bram Crag Wall © Seymore Butt
Crag features
A fine-granite quarry close to Castle Rock in St. Johns in the Vale. From a distance the quarry looks dangerously loose but closer inspection reveals some good solid areas of rock. Many of the routes when they were first put up were a mixture of trad and occasional home made bolt hangers. Many upper tier routes are hard to protect with trad gear and most have now been retro-bolted.WARNING: Rock falls (small and large) are frequently reported at the Quarry, extreme care must be taken when choosing routes.
July 2022 - the rockfall in the Centre Parc area (from 2018/19??) that partially obstructed the path has extended with another fall. On 8/7/22 there was bent grass under a 2 tin block that was still green. Considerable numbers of large blocks above this area but still attached look ready to follow. Great care should be taken accessing routes behind the drop zone.
June 2022 - small rock fall in the Bram Crag Wall area, climber hit on leg by "frying pan" sized lump of rock that detached itself from an undercling without being touched.
September 2018 - major rockfall reported at the far right hand end of the upper tier, routes around the area of false profit. There is reportedly some loose blocks still 'attached' to the crag which may fall so either avoid or use caution.
Not an aesthetic crag but good slab climbing and accessible for a quick hit.
Approach notes
Park in a layby roughly 100m north of the quarry entrance (if full there are two more laybys roughly 300m north and 250m south) opposite a shortcut into the woods to the quarry track. Follow the shortcuts and quarry track up the hill until a grassy path leads off left onto the top of the grass ridge where the whole quarry is visible.To get to the lower tier, rather than taking the grassy path, stay on the quarry track into the south quarry and head to the far corner where you can descend to the lower tier.
Please note, the quarry is privately owned with access required at all times. As such please DO NOT park in quarry entrance and be considerate of crag rules.
Access Advice
Anyone climbing in the quarry does so at their own risk. The landowner wants to make visiting climbers aware that this is a quarry with the associated dangers that come with it - in particular the potential for loose rock.
Access is permitted to experienced recreational climbers on the following conditions and continued access is reliant on climbers respecting them:
- No children
- No novices
- No instructed groups
- Publication of guidebook information should be with the permission of the landowner.
| Enjoyed climbing here on a wet and windy Tuesday, returned to climb in the sun on the Friday but hadn't even made it up the track before we were approached by a man who told us we didn't have permission to climb, didn't fancy any confrontation so decided to leave it. Erin Linwood - 25/Jul/20 |
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| I agree with the last comment. Two cars parked in the gateway leading to the wood business on 10 October. A BMC notice is well overdue before Foredale type issues arise. Angry old man - 12/Oct/18 |
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| Need to update access issues. Groups of any sort are not allowed and will be kicked out immediately. Alex Seekings - 22/Jun/18 |
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| Last dash F6b, Twilight F5, The Quarryman F6a - theses routes are all now bolted and graded as above in latest lake district book crabtreer - 31/Aug/15 |
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| Two house brick sized rock falls from the overhanging choss above the Charcoal Burners area last night. One was uncomfortably close. robhowell - 17/Jul/15 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Route Adjuster