UKC

Climbs 110
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 16m a.s.l
Faces S

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Lucia working Coral Sea © Ben.o.neill

Crag features

A South-facing limestone sea cliff with two distinct characters; a very popular section of mainly harder sports routes in the Boulder Cove on generally good rock contrasts with a long line of rarely climbed trad routes on variable quality rock. 

The National Trust owns Brean Down and asks climbers to avoid the sand 'cliff' and the rocks adjacent to it, where archaeological finds have been discovered recently.

Approach notes

From the A38 or M5 jct 22, take the B3140 to Burham-On-Sea and Berrow from where a minor road runs northwards to a dead end with a NT carpark and café. The NT carpark opens at 10am but the exit remains open allowing you to leave at any time. Two other carparks close by open earlier but also lock their gates earlier.

The whole crag is tidal with one of the fastest and largest tidal ranges in the world. The height of the tide determies specific access times but generally the base of the cliff will be accessable except within a maximum of two hours either side of high tide.

Access across the beach to the most popular section, the Boulder Cove is affected by the tide more than the climbing itself. Access wise you will be able to get in/out 1-2 hours either side of high tide depending on the height of the tide. Climbing wise, generally you can climb at high tide although tides above 12m will cover the beach side of the cove but the upper level is well above the tide line.

Access to the Boulder Cove sport routes is still possible when the tide cuts off the beach approach via an exposed route in over the top. This is equipped with a fixed hand line but this should be treated with caution. The anchors available for the middle section are not directly above the descent line. When approached from below the rope for the middle section can get caught in the scrub. When the grass is wet the approach becomes more serious. The route is diificult to find from above so it is best to familiarise yourself from from the bottom first.

 

Found lifting block and sling at Brean on Saturday 11th November - Message me if it’s yours!
Jakebirdy - 10/Nov/24
Accessible at high tides that are predicted at less than about 8.5m, without having to wait for the sea to go out. Unless there's a big swell, then you might have to wait a short while. At a spring high tide, around 12m, access + egress will be ok from about 2 hrs after high tide and upto 2hrs before the next high. There is an escape route, the start of which looks unstable, but seems ok, with a rope higher up. Takes about 10mins to walk in/ out this way, but don't go looking for it to get in if you aren't familiar with it. Take care on the grassy slopes above the cliff, theres some steps to a safer area.
Fakey Rocks - 29/Oct/17
a truely perfect winter venue from today's experience.
Stanners - 11/Jan/12
Great crag look forward go returniv and gettng some more quality routes. Is this crag a bit soft though?
Goonie - 14/Jun/10
Despite fear of making this crag even busier, I have to say Brean has again offered a still and dry spot while the rest of the UK suffered from howling winds and heavy bands of rain. Thank you microclimate.
Jon_Warner - 22/Nov/08
"... not strictly speaking sport climbs..." There's a fine collection of safe-as-houses sport routes. Well worth the trip - check out Mark Glaister's article on this website.
Jus - 01/Jul/05
the fort crags are well worth checking out although only about 30ft in height the rock quality is superb, excellent textured rock superb friction and good gear. A nice esoteric spot.
dylan burgess - 25/Aug/04
Cyclop's Slab (HVS), contrary to many guide books, has no stake or tree belays anymore, except a very long way away. Make sure you have plenty of spare rope, or a spare.
Mark Maynard - 27/Nov/02
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