Climbs 99
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S
Lucia working Coral Sea © Ben.o.neill
South-facing limestone sea cliff, with a range of mainly harder routes. Excellent winter venue. Rock quality good, despite reports of the opposite. Some bolt protected climbs on the back wall of the Boulder Cave.
Tidal. The base of most of the cliffs can be reached except within one or two hours of high tide.
For the sport crag, Boulder Cove, if high tide will be less than 8.5m, you can always walk in and out on the beach, but with a 13m high spring tide, you'll need to give around 2.5hrs for it to recede.
Alternatively, (would be best left until you know where it is after using it as an exit) you can walk up the steps and over the top to a steep slightly precarious descent that sometimes has a fixed rope in place, but the bottom section is loose and unstable so take great care. Late 2017, Fixed rope reaches the bottom of the crag, but the mid section isn't knotted so less than ideal for descent assistance,, advise using the obvious short windy unroped path section here, until you meet the knotted rope again. This would all be best left until you know where it is after using it as an exit.
From the A38 or M5 jct 22, take the B3140 to Burham-On-Sea and Berrow from where a minor road runs northwards to a car park below the Down. Don't be tempted to drive across the sands to the base of the cliffs themselves - your car will get stuck, and the tide will do the rest.
The routes at the back wall of Boulder Cave can be reached by abseil at any state of the tide (? new mods note..., Off stakes? Trad gear? Never seen it done, there is a precarious descent path + rope in place , as described above).
The National Trust owns Brean Down and asks climbers to avoid the sand 'cliff' and the rocks adjacent to it, where archaeological finds have been discovered recently
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