Rockfax Description
75m. Climbs the most prominent crack in the centre of the smooth wall. One of the must-do hard routes of Scottish climbing: a fine, bold line. Start below the crack.
1. 20m 6b From a ledge just right of the crack, gain a small groove and climb to its top (crucial micro-wire in a slot on the right). Go up and left to the crack and follow it and a shallow corner, moving right to the top to sloping ledges.
2. 20m 6a Climb the corner containing three small overhangs to the slab above.
3. 50m 5c Continue up steep cracks in the same line to the top.
FA M.Hamilton, P.Whillance, R.Anderson, 30 May 1982 © Rockfax
Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs ****
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(South Cove)