Rockfax Description
75m. An excellent route, interest increasing with height. The final pitch involves a very exposed right traverse, but fortunately the holds are good. From below the huge flake, go up right for 10m to a flake set away from the wall (22m up and left of the start of Agag's).
1. 20m Climb steep twin right-facing corner cracks for 7m then go up and left by large rock steps until it is possible to move back right to a ledge and square flake situated above the start.
2. 20m Move right and climb by a flake-crack and short steep walls, then go straight up to the block belay below the nose pitch of Agag's.
3. 15m Pull on to the wall above and make an improbable traverse rightwards round the edge of the wall. Climb a hidden groove to re-emerge on the south-east face and continue to the metal spike below the overhanging crack of Satan's Slit.
4. 20m Start a right traverse with a trying move to reach better holds. Swing round an edge to a good stopping place at the foot of a hidden groove. Climb the groove and pull out left on to the wall in a sensational position. Continue on improving holds to the crest of Crowberry Ridge. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Scotland's Mountain Ridges by Dan Bailey , Heather's Multipitch Climbs , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , 2013 Scottish Multi Pitch Mission , 2014 , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , The Baron's Bucket List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , High Quality Adventure routes , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , A Year of Climbing , Mountain Rock , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , Dad's Scottish Rock Underliners , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition) , The boys climb da rocks. , Lairig hitlist , To Do , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , The Classic, Easy Scottish Mountain Routes , Scotland Ticklist , The Unattainable SUMC Ticklist , Greg's bucket list
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Steve Woollard | 1 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Top tip, route starts by JJ scratched onto rock | βeta? | |
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βeta: Top tip, route starts by JJ scratched onto rock |
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| EllaF | 8 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Chose not to clip the piton which more services Agag's due to potential rope drag on JJ which meant an exposed an unprotected (but steady) traverse right over Rannoch. This was a good decision, but is probably why this route gets Severe. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Chose not to clip the piton which more services Agag's due to potential rope drag on JJ which meant an exposed an unprotected (but steady) traverse right over Rannoch. This was a good decision, but is probably why this route gets Severe. |
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| ShannonSviolin | 17 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Another nice climb with magnificent views and an awesome abseil. | ||
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βeta: Another nice climb with magnificent views and an awesome abseil. |
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| StevenF | 14 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: Watch out for ropes getting stuck when abseiling. The metal spike described is not necessarily what you expect... its tiny and only just poking out the rock. So don't be surprised if you don't see it until you're on top of it | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Watch out for ropes getting stuck when abseiling. The metal spike described is not necessarily what you expect... its tiny and only just poking out the rock. So don't be surprised if you don't see it until you're on top of it |
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| David Centeno | 27 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aygDbQEwpg | ||
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βeta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aygDbQEwpg |
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| lewis.m | 26 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Route finding on pitch 3 is awkward. You need to traverse left beyond the overhanging crack of Satans Slit by another 4 or 5 metres to reach the useless metal spike. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Route finding on pitch 3 is awkward. You need to traverse left beyond the overhanging crack of Satans Slit by another 4 or 5 metres to reach the useless metal spike. |
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| Busby | 7 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Watch out for the bloody ravens up there, they now know how to open rucksack zips and will be at your bags the minute you leave the deck. Swines nicked every single bit of food from both our bags, I suggest weighing them down with BIG rocks..... | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Watch out for the bloody ravens up there, they now know how to open rucksack zips and will be at your bags the minute you leave the deck. Swines nicked every single bit of food from both our bags, I suggest weighing them down with BIG rocks..... |
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Logged Ascents
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Raeburns Arete 1931 Var
Grade: S 4a ***
(Ben Nevis)