Rockfax Description
220m. This popular climb is often climbed in combination with Agag's Groove or January Jigsaw. The first of many routes by the team of Bell and Harrison in Glen Coe. Scramble up easy slabs to the bottom rocks of the north-east edge of the buttress. Start at a prominent spike just left of a rock niche. Climb a series of corners and walls. The left-hand crack on the last steep wall is exposed but boasts a perfect handhold. Easy scrambling, then an easy slab on the left leads to a ledge below an arete with a crack just left of its edge (Hiccup).
The route goes right round the edge and gains a recess by an obvious and well marked traverse. Now descend rightwards to a ledge and climb an awkward 3m wall to a ledge slanting right. Follow the ledge to a 20m chimney. Climb the chimney, with a long step right at 10m, to a grass ledge. Traverse hard left on sloping holds to a short steep crack near the buttress edge. Follow the edge to the top on splendid rock. © Rockfax
Classic Rock , Scottish Classic Rock , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Mountain Rock , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , Consolidation Easy Long Routes , To Do , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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AndrewP | 27 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Rockfax app topo was great for finding the start of the route but the line was incorrect for much of the upper section. Go with the description - the 20m chimney is OK with a pack. After the chimney descend to the left for an absolutely glorious pitch up the rib. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Rockfax app topo was great for finding the start of the route but the line was incorrect for much of the upper section. Go with the description - the 20m chimney is OK with a pack. After the chimney descend to the left for an absolutely glorious pitch up the rib. |
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AndyKing | 7 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: A fair amount of unsound/hollow-sounding and loose rock, particularly at the belay at the top of the chimney. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A fair amount of unsound/hollow-sounding and loose rock, particularly at the belay at the top of the chimney. |
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Eddie2 | 25 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Rockfax description is wrong for the upper section. The description takes you onto a gearless holdless slab instead of going far right into the chimney. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Rockfax description is wrong for the upper section. The description takes you onto a gearless holdless slab instead of going far right into the chimney. |
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AC1 | 1990 |
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βeta: Met Tom Weir at the top! 'Free beer...' | βeta? | |
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βeta: Met Tom Weir at the top! 'Free beer...' |
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Grade: S ***
(Buachaille Etive Mor)