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Rockfax Description
A long mountaineering outing that has some excellent climbing in exposed positions. The ridge that links the buttress to the main cliff is unusual. Pay attention to the descent options, which are tricky and can be time consuming. Start on a worn series of foot-ledges 5m right of a tree.
1) 4a, 20m. Move up to a wide rib with a short ramp on its left. Gain the ramp and a spike runner at its top. Step right and pull up the short wall to easier ground and a belay ledge.
2) 4a, 20m. Climb the crack and spikes above to a thread, then take the open corner leftwards to a stance on the wall just left of the overhang/leaning wall.
3) 4a, 30m. Move right to some good holds on the wall above the overhang and traverse out to the arete and meet it level with an overlap. Follow the line of ribs and ledges to a belay in a vegetated bay.
4) 4a, 30m. Climb a short thin crack on the right side of the bay then continue up walls and cracks to a belay on a ridge.
5) 30m. The ridge past pinnacles leads to a col with steep gullies on either side. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Lakeland Revival 2015, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2017, Mountaineering Routes in the Lake District, A Lakeland Apprenticeship

Feedback

User Date Notes
slacky 28 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Went left for alternative finish climbing the run, felt more like VS, going left off rib up Grove is probably what is described in the guide.
βeta?
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βeta: Went left for alternative finish climbing the run, felt more like VS, going left off rib up Grove is probably what is described in the guide.
glaramara 21 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Make sure you top out then walk off is easy.
 
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βeta: Make sure you top out then walk off is easy.
glaramara 21 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 1st pitch is hard until u remember to step right avoiding the blank crack. 4 pitches of climbing and 2 of scrambling. If u go right to the top walk off is straight forward.
 
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βeta: 1st pitch is hard until u remember to step right avoiding the blank crack. 4 pitches of climbing and 2 of scrambling. If u go right to the top walk off is straight forward.

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 29
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Gillercombe Buttress

Grade: S 4a ***
(Gillercombe)