A long mountaineering outing that has some excellent climbing in exposed positions. The ridge that links the buttress to the main cliff is unusual. Pay attention to the descent options, which are tricky and can be time consuming. Start on a worn series of foot-ledges 5m right of a tree.
1) 4a, 20m. Move up to a wide rib with a short ramp on its left. Gain the ramp and a spike runner at its top. Step right and pull up the short wall to easier ground and a belay ledge.
2) 4a, 20m. Climb the crack and spikes above to a thread, then take the open corner leftwards to a stance on the wall just left of the overhang/leaning wall.
3) 4a, 30m. Move right to some good holds on the wall above the overhang and traverse out to the arete and meet it level with an overlap. Follow the line of ribs and ledges to a belay in a vegetated bay.
4) 4a, 30m. Climb a short thin crack on the right side of the bay then continue up walls and cracks to a belay on a ridge.
5) 30m. The ridge past pinnacles leads to a col with steep gullies on either side. © Rockfax
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