UKC

Rockfax Description
A long mountaineering outing that has some excellent climbing in exposed positions. The ridge that links the buttress to the main cliff is unusual. Pay attention to the descent options, which are tricky and can be time consuming. Start on a worn series of foot-ledges 5m right of a tree.
1) 4a, 20m. Move up to a wide rib with a short ramp on its left. Gain the ramp and a spike runner at its top. Step right and pull up the short wall to easier ground and a belay ledge.
2) 4a, 20m. Climb the crack and spikes above to a thread, then take the open corner leftwards to a stance on the wall just left of the overhang/leaning wall.
3) 4a, 30m. Move right to some good holds on the wall above the overhang and traverse out to the arete and meet it level with an overlap. Follow the line of ribs and ledges to a belay in a vegetated bay.
4) 4a, 30m. Climb a short thin crack on the right side of the bay then continue up walls and cracks to a belay on a ridge.
5) 30m. The ridge past pinnacles leads to a col with steep gullies on either side. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Lakeland Revival 2015 , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2017 , Mountaineering Routes in the Lake District , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Eastern lakes multipitch , Lake District Multipitch Climbing

Feedback

User Date Notes
biggianthead 8 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: A great mountaineering route. It's a shame some abseil off at top of pitch 3. Pitch 4 is great (as described by FRCC variation), although the belay needs a bit of thought. The pinnacles are fun. The last pitch up to the summit is about 30m (again belays need thought) Gentle amble down (better than mucking about in a gully)
βeta?
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βeta: A great mountaineering route. It's a shame some abseil off at top of pitch 3. Pitch 4 is great (as described by FRCC variation), although the belay needs a bit of thought. The pinnacles are fun. The last pitch up to the summit is about 30m (again belays need thought) Gentle amble down (better than mucking about in a gully)
jlury 19 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: v good. feels q adventurous. beautiful location on a big crag. did as 6 pitches. p4 the left hand FRCC variant is much better, as described by other users. p5 is the pinnacles (v good!), p6 is loose-ish terrain (still VD or S) to the top. Carry your shoes for the long walk down steep grass (to the R looking in).
βeta?
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βeta: v good. feels q adventurous. beautiful location on a big crag. did as 6 pitches. p4 the left hand FRCC variant is much better, as described by other users. p5 is the pinnacles (v good!), p6 is loose-ish terrain (still VD or S) to the top. Carry your shoes for the long walk down steep grass (to the R looking in).
GPN 7 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Alternative pitch 4 (as described in the FRCC guide) is very good. From the belay at the top of the third pitch move up to behind the flakey pinnacle on the left side of the bay. Step up and left and follow cracks and flakes up to the final ridge (4a).
βeta?
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βeta: Alternative pitch 4 (as described in the FRCC guide) is very good. From the belay at the top of the third pitch move up to behind the flakey pinnacle on the left side of the bay. Step up and left and follow cracks and flakes up to the final ridge (4a).
KKormos 6 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Instead of the downclimb to the right, we abseiled through it off a rock spike.
βeta?
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βeta: Instead of the downclimb to the right, we abseiled through it off a rock spike.
K Farrell 28 Feb, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The walk off is totally fine. Walk to the left (looking in) for a fair way until you can look down and see a wide grassy ledge with rocks on about 80m below. You can then follow that back down. Easily spotted from the bottom before you start climbing!
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βeta: The walk off is totally fine. Walk to the left (looking in) for a fair way until you can look down and see a wide grassy ledge with rocks on about 80m below. You can then follow that back down. Easily spotted from the bottom before you start climbing!
slacky 28 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Went left for alternative finish climbing the run, felt more like VS, going left off rib up Grove is probably what is described in the guide.
βeta?
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βeta: Went left for alternative finish climbing the run, felt more like VS, going left off rib up Grove is probably what is described in the guide.
glaramara 21 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Make sure you top out then walk off is easy.
Show beta
βeta: Make sure you top out then walk off is easy.
glaramara 21 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 1st pitch is hard until u remember to step right avoiding the blank crack. 4 pitches of climbing and 2 of scrambling. If u go right to the top walk off is straight forward.
Show beta
βeta: 1st pitch is hard until u remember to step right avoiding the blank crack. 4 pitches of climbing and 2 of scrambling. If u go right to the top walk off is straight forward.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Buckbarrow Crag

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 36
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Abbey Buttress

Grade: S 4a ***
(The Napes)

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