Restricted Access
No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzel nest sites change quickly and frequently as they often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
An eliminate version of Crackhead which starts sitting down in the cave, as for Crackhead, but uses only the wide crack (not the crack and wall behind) and eliminates the obvious face hold which could help you turn the lip. Turns the climb into pure stacking joy! An easier version still eliminates the crack behind but leaves in the face hold. The 3 climbs together are great for developing crack skills!
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Guidebooks for Burbage North
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Route of Interest
Apprentice Wall
Grade: f6C ***
(Anston Stones Wood)