Climbs 289
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 398m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Kevin Jorgeson on his way to the first ground-up ascent of Parthian Shot, E9 © Adam Long

Crag features

Burbage South has never really been as popular as its northern twin. While its shady aspect and greenness don't help, its popularity has been limited by the uncompromising appearance of its buttresses, which lack the lower grade classics that pepper most of the other edges in the area. It is something of a surprising fact that Burbage South is home to several of the hardest routes on gritstone which makes them amongst the hardest trad challenges anywhere. Don't be put off though, in amongst all the big names are plenty of other fine routes across the grade range as long as you choose a dry spell to visit. Summer shade is an added attraction on the hottest days of the year, as is evening sunshine on cooler summer evenings.

Approach notes

The best approach is from the Fox House end of the valley. There is parking on the grass verge on the roadside 200m uphill from the entrance to the pub car park. A stile allows you to cross the wall and leads straight across the moor (splodgy after rain) for 550m to reach the cliff-top path above the quarries. The rest of the crag is to the right (northeast) from here.

Green Drive - There is a very limited parking spot (about 5 cars) at the end of the main valley path. Walk up the Green Drive and head rightwards up the hill to reach the quarries.

Rockfax Digital

Available on Rockfax Digital

Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.

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Climbs at this crag

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