Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 368m a.s.l
Trellis © Nick Brown
The North Quarry is a gloomy quarry with a few decent routes best done on high summer evenings. When the sun is flooding in Fox House Flake or Zeus will be memorable experiences and not greasy battles. The outer slab, including the classic Millwheel Wall, comes into condition more often. The often-wet wall at the back of the quarry is now home to a set of technical wall climbs that are rarely in condition.
The Southern Quarry is as grim as its neighbour; it has a small collection of hard routes and a few lesser offerings. Most of the routes are only climbable after a dry spell.
The best approach is from the Fox House end of the valley. There is parking on the grass verge on the roadside 200m uphill from the entrance to the pub car park. A stile allows you to cross the wall and leads straight across the moor (splodgy after rain) for 550m to reach the cliff-top path above the quarries. The rest of the crag is to the right (northeast) from here.
Green Drive - There is a very limited parking spot (about 5 cars) at the end of the main valley path. Walk up the Green Drive and head rightwards up the hill to reach the quarries.
No access problems but beware of the car break-ins in the small parking bay on the A625/A6187 on the Yorkshire side of Toadsmouth bend.
April to June 2023: there are currently Kestrels nesting in the southern quarry at Burbage South - please avoid this for the time being to give the birds some space.
Ring ouzels are also nesting on Burbage, Stanage and Bamford and this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
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