UKC

Restricted Access

Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.

There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.

 

 

Rockfax Description
Start just to the left of the left-leaning slab. Follow the edge up to just above a peg where you break out onto the slab before following a grassy crack to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The only quality route in the blast shelter quarry just below Bus Stop. Go through the kissing gate opposite the bus turning circle and then its on your left. Biggles Flies Undone follows the obvious slab from 1/3 height.

Start just to the left of the left-leaning slab. Follow the face up to just above a peg where you break out onto the slab before following a grassy crack to the top.

Ticklists

Wales Trip - 2022 , Slate Goals

Feedback

User Date Notes
Astilath 27 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: As of 26/5/22 some total spoon has tried to smack a new peg in the friable crack next to the old (still quite servicable) peg. Seems very unnecessary on an otherwise quite well protected, easy route! I expect someone will remove it because only the tip is in the crack despite an apparent effort to wedge little bits of slate in there to make it stick. So it's not even meaningful to clip it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As of 26/5/22 some total spoon has tried to smack a new peg in the friable crack next to the old (still quite servicable) peg. Seems very unnecessary on an otherwise quite well protected, easy route! I expect someone will remove it because only the tip is in the crack despite an apparent effort to wedge little bits of slate in there to make it stick. So it's not even meaningful to clip it.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Bus Stop Quarry

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 53
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 46
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
A Touch of Class

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Drws y Gwynt)

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