UKC

Restricted Access

Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.

There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.

 

 

Rockfax Description
A powerful and technical route that has some great climbing weaving between the bolts. Gain the first bolt from the left. From an undercut in the overlap, make a powerful move up and right to a side-pull. Big moves on good holds lead to the second roof (possible knee bar/rest). Move up to the bolts on the headwall and then traverse left to a hard pull onto a ledge. A desperate slab move leads up to the lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Straightforward climbing to a hard and slippery crux pulling over the roof by the second bolt. Long move up then a tricky traverse left and a delicate finish.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Top class slate sport 7b-8a , Slate Sport , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7c & 7c+ , Llanberis Slate *** Routes

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Bus Stop Quarry

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Chitra

Grade: 7c ***
(Rainbow Slab Area)

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