Restricted Access

Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.

There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.



Rockfax Description
Steep, pumpy and awesome. This route takes on the steeper side of slate, and it is obligatory to shout 'Whey aye man' from the lower-off, or scream in frustration should you fail. Start up either the slab or the steep wall, to reach a bolt at the top of the slab. An exciting traverse right gains the niche, before a hard move left past another bolt provides the first crux and leads to the pumpy headwall. From a large flat hold, make a difficult move up and right to the arete before the heading back left to the lower-off. © Rockfax


North Wales Rock Graded List , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , Classic UK F7s , Slate Sport , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7a & 7a+ , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , Slate Goals , North Wales To Do List


User Date Notes
abostock 5 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Potential foothold for the crux has fallen away. Other options are still available.
Show beta
βeta: Potential foothold for the crux has fallen away. Other options are still available.

Logged Ascents

105 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Bus Stop Quarry

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High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Black Arabesque

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Allen's Sunbeach)

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