Restricted Access
Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.
There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.
Rockfax Description
Aptly named. Climb the left-slanting flaky crack 3m left of Fool's Gold. Follow this to the top of a pinnacle, then move right to a crack/groove and up to a ledge. Move left gingerly to escape. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Aptly named, climb the left slanting flaky crack 3m left of the fools gold crack. follow this to the top of a pinnacle. Move right to a crack/groove then up to a ledge. Move gingerly left to escape.
T.Taylor & A.Whittall 18/Jun/1985.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nick osborn | 29 Dec, 2023 |
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βeta: Looks like there has been a significant rock fall with loose blocks above | βeta? | |
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βeta: Looks like there has been a significant rock fall with loose blocks above |
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| Paulos87 | 27 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Quite a bit of loose rock | βeta? | |
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βeta: Quite a bit of loose rock |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Bus Stop Quarry
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Whillan's Crack
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Rhinog Fawr South Faces)