UKC

Restricted Access

Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.

There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.

 

 

23m.

Rockfax Description
A good route, but it is poorly protected until you reach the letter box at two-thirds height. Start as for 1000 Tons... and follow this to the spike. Move up and right, past very poor gear, onto the wall to gain a prominent letter box - good small cams. Head up and slightly left to a bold finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
a very necky solo direct up from scare city, excellent climbing just no real gear!!

Tony Kay, Paul Pritchard 1988.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List

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Guidebooks for Bus Stop Quarry

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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 20
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pretty Girls Make Graves

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Gravestones/ Hidden Wall/ Yr Ochr Wen/ Twll Tin)

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