Climbing is banned on most sectors including Deportivo (sometimes known as Chorreras or Sucina) and Sherpa from 1st january till 30th June due to nesting birds.https://www.valenciaclimb.com/regulations/
Rockfax Description
E4. A direct line on good rock up the left-hand side of the buttress, starting 20m left of where Gene is scratched on the rock. There is some fixed gear (and bolts on the stances) but it is not a sport route so take a rack including cams.1) 5. A long pitch.2) 6c. This one has some chipped holds.3) 6c+. Good climbing on quality rock. Watch the starting moves above a ledge and there is a big runout in the middle and old bolts for the last left traverse.4) 6b. Short but good and well protected.5) 6b. Another good pitch with a poorly protected start (upside down peg) then easy climbing. Belay on the left.6) 6b. A nice slab with threads then easier to the top of the wall and a junction with Gene, just before its last pitch. © Rockfax
FA. J.Ruiz, M.Pomares 1983.
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Grade: 6c+ ***
(Cabezon de Oro)