UKC

No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists

Cairngorm Winter Climbs , Winter 2018/19 , III and IV Scottish winter mileage , The far too large and ambitious list of things I want to do in winter , Get sendy winter 24 , PTRICKY's Inspo (Winter) , January Scotland Mission , Winter Progression

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User Date Notes
jcunningham 15 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Snow condition-wise, If you need to pitch the traverse to gain the route, you are better off finding something else to do. For 2nd pitch we traversed right and, making the noise of a dying hyena, gained a small wall to easier ground (really unsure whether this was the route or it went left at P2). This allowed us to continue to the small chimney, which was excellent. Fun outing with two mates!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Snow condition-wise, If you need to pitch the traverse to gain the route, you are better off finding something else to do. For 2nd pitch we traversed right and, making the noise of a dying hyena, gained a small wall to easier ground (really unsure whether this was the route or it went left at P2). This allowed us to continue to the small chimney, which was excellent. Fun outing with two mates!
squizbug 13 Jan, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Take care to deliberately traverse left for the 3rd pitch chimney. We could see where a recent team had continued in a more direct line into a steep wide gully with a difficult feature to surmount at the top - could have been interpreted as a chimney as described in the book. Abseil tat etc had been left, hinting at epic-territory. The correct chimney comes out by savage slit. I advise folk to look at the UKC pictures uploaded for this route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Take care to deliberately traverse left for the 3rd pitch chimney. We could see where a recent team had continued in a more direct line into a steep wide gully with a difficult feature to surmount at the top - could have been interpreted as a chimney as described in the book. Abseil tat etc had been left, hinting at epic-territory. The correct chimney comes out by savage slit. I advise folk to look at the UKC pictures uploaded for this route.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Cairn Gorm - Cairn Lochan

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Voting
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
Votes cast 18
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flake Buttress (Winter)

Grade: III ***
(Ben Macdui - Stob Coire Sputan Dearg)

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