60m, 3 pitches.
Superb climbing up the middle of the steep wall bounding the left side of Deerhound Ridge. Well protected crux sections with good belays. Re-given VII after a the flake at the top left side of the crux crack has come away making the move right out of the groove a bit harder.
1. 30m Turfy grooves to belay on a large terrace.
2. 15m Climb the overhanging crack directly above into a groove. Exit this right to gain a block under a steep wall then go up and left before pulling onto a ledge leading to a belay by a big leaning flake.
3. 15m Go up the crack directly above the belay, step right and follow a wider crack to finish abruptly on easy ground. (50m scrambling to the plateau).
1. 30m Turfy grooves to belay on a large terrace.
2. 15m Climb the overhanging crack directly above into a groove. Exit this right to gain a block under a steep wall then go up and left before pulling onto a ledge leading to a belay by a big leaning flake.
3. 15m Go up the crack directly above the belay, step right and follow a wider crack to finish abruptly on easy ground. (50m scrambling to the plateau).
Steve Perry, Helen Rennard, Andy Nisbet 20/Jan/2019.
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Route of Interest
The Magic Crack
Grade: VII 7 ***
(Cairn Gorm - Stob Coire an t-Sneachda)