115m, 4 pitches.
A direct route on clean slabs. ( Cleaned mainly 1st pitch May 2024).
Start immediately, right of the 60m tongue of granite. Halfway up a short Heather ledge leading right to left.
1. 50m 4b. Climb a curving shallow groove until it fades then move left to the lefthand corner of the big overlap. Ascend this bypassing a second arch overlap before moving up and right to terrace.
2. 20m. 4c. Directly behind terrace climb a steep clean slab to reach a block on "Central grooves" (3rd pitch). Step right and climb another steep slab to a grass ledge and belay.
3. 30m. 4c. Move easily up the slab diagonally right aiming for the centre of the multiple overlap slab. Left of a grassy corner. An obvious round, pothole above the 1st overlap. Climb through the centre of the overlaps and delicate slab above (crux). Belay on an excellent little ledge just above a further overlap.
4. 15m. Easily Directly up slab behind the belay. Pitches can be combined but it's a good belay spot.
Start immediately, right of the 60m tongue of granite. Halfway up a short Heather ledge leading right to left.
1. 50m 4b. Climb a curving shallow groove until it fades then move left to the lefthand corner of the big overlap. Ascend this bypassing a second arch overlap before moving up and right to terrace.
2. 20m. 4c. Directly behind terrace climb a steep clean slab to reach a block on "Central grooves" (3rd pitch). Step right and climb another steep slab to a grass ledge and belay.
3. 30m. 4c. Move easily up the slab diagonally right aiming for the centre of the multiple overlap slab. Left of a grassy corner. An obvious round, pothole above the 1st overlap. Climb through the centre of the overlaps and delicate slab above (crux). Belay on an excellent little ledge just above a further overlap.
4. 15m. Easily Directly up slab behind the belay. Pitches can be combined but it's a good belay spot.
F.McKie. R.McKie 01/Jun/2024.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| fmck | 6 Jun, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 1 was cleaned May 2024. Some minor tufts removed from P3. Rest was clean already. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pitch 1 was cleaned May 2024. Some minor tufts removed from P3. Rest was clean already. |
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| fmck | 3 Jun, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 2 block looks a bit dodgy but seems solid enough. Needs a big sling. A bomb proof camalot 3 can be used instead just to the right. Pitch 3 crux is a bit run out but there's an excellent crack that takes small cams and wires before moving up onto the slab | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 2 block looks a bit dodgy but seems solid enough. Needs a big sling. A bomb proof camalot 3 can be used instead just to the right. Pitch 3 crux is a bit run out but there's an excellent crack that takes small cams and wires before moving up onto the slab |
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Logged Ascents
There are no ascents logged for this climb.
Guidebooks for Caisteal Abhail
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Route of Interest
Dogleg / Blank Linkup
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Rosa Slabs)