100m, 3 pitches.
The most noticeable feature of this climb is a direct ascent of the massive hanging slab area Slapstick wall and its variations circumvent around. Start up the shallow gully from Slapstick wall at an obvious left facing flake running up the steep slab.
1. 25m. 4c. Climb the flake and slab above. Ahead is a large plinth with Slapstick wall climbing its left corner. The right hand corner is more broken. Climb the front of the plinth before a groove leads from right to left. Finish up the steep groove in the front face of the plinth to belay atop of plinth.
2. 15m. 4c. Behind the plinth is a seemingly blank steep slab. Climb this both bold and delicate until the angle relents then traverse left to Slapstick walls second belay.
3. 60m. 4c. Climb Slapstick walls 4c variation to access the upper slab then move up and left to a small granite ledge. Above a intermittent flake system runs up the centre of the huge, pristine slab. Follow this and over first overlap to reach a large bow shaped, stepped overlap baring the way. Climb the overlap by a obvious central weakness and continue up to the final overlap which is climbed by a clean left to right ramp. Easy slabs above lead to a square block belay. A pitch that's as good as Arran slabs get. It's quality, position and line that keeps delivering give this pitch ***
1. 25m. 4c. Climb the flake and slab above. Ahead is a large plinth with Slapstick wall climbing its left corner. The right hand corner is more broken. Climb the front of the plinth before a groove leads from right to left. Finish up the steep groove in the front face of the plinth to belay atop of plinth.
2. 15m. 4c. Behind the plinth is a seemingly blank steep slab. Climb this both bold and delicate until the angle relents then traverse left to Slapstick walls second belay.
3. 60m. 4c. Climb Slapstick walls 4c variation to access the upper slab then move up and left to a small granite ledge. Above a intermittent flake system runs up the centre of the huge, pristine slab. Follow this and over first overlap to reach a large bow shaped, stepped overlap baring the way. Climb the overlap by a obvious central weakness and continue up to the final overlap which is climbed by a clean left to right ramp. Easy slabs above lead to a square block belay. A pitch that's as good as Arran slabs get. It's quality, position and line that keeps delivering give this pitch ***
F.McKie. R.McKie 11/May/2024.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| fmck | 3 Jun |
Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 1 cleaned May 2024. Pitches above naturally clean. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pitch 1 cleaned May 2024. Pitches above naturally clean. |
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| fmck | 13 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 2 has a spike runner at the top of the initial slab before the traverse left. This will protect the second from taking a big pendulum should they come off the delicate initial few metres. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pitch 2 has a spike runner at the top of the initial slab before the traverse left. This will protect the second from taking a big pendulum should they come off the delicate initial few metres. |
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Logged Ascents
There are no ascents logged for this climb.
Guidebooks for Caisteal Abhail
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Route of Interest
Dogleg / Blank Linkup
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Rosa Slabs)