The original line here was put up in 1984 and then re-equipped in 1995. The harder sections are well protected, but bolting is spaced out on the easier parts, including a grade 3 pitch (P6 ), which has just a belay point at the top. The route is often done with a quick pull on a couple of bolts on the polished crux on pitch 5, reducing the over-all grade to a sustained 5+.
1) 5. Easy-angled slabs setting off from the memorial plaque.
2) 5. A short pitch heading to the right with a sneaky foot-traverse to reach the stance.
3) 5+. Another short one though pretty tough for the grade.
4) 5. A fine and varied pitch that finishes at the higher of the two belay points.
5) 5. Some fine slab-climbing.
6) 6a+. The roof at the start of the pitch is the crux of the route, which is somewhat polished and can be tackled free at 6a+, or with two points of aid at a more amenable 5+/A0.
7) An easy scramble, but it has some dubious rock and no fixed gear except the belay point at the top. Walk 20m to find the start of the final pitch.
8) 5+. Loop through the roof from left to right the finish easily taking care with some loose rock. © Rockfax
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