UKC

45m.

Rockfax Description
To the right of California Wall is a loose disgusting-looking wall. If you go high enough up the base of it you will see an off-width, chimney slot that breaks through it. Having made the harrowing scramble past the base of this crack, make a belay of sorts. The leader now shuffles leftwards to gain the base of the hideous beast and battles upwards. The hope is that the upwards momentum of the climber beats the downwards momentum of the crag. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Follow occasionally orange choss rightward beneath the large and impossing, blue and green back wall of California. Once you've arrived in a towering loose bay, tie to as many blocks as possible (this makes it more awkward for the belayer to leave once the leader sets off). Traverse leftwards across ledges, cleaning as you go, until you arrive at the base of a striking off-width crack. Climb this to the top.

Will Perrin & Dave Rudkin 2000.

Ticklists

Craciau Llydan Gogledd Cymru , Journey Through Welsh Crack Climbing

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Route of Interest
The Great Crack Of Porth Oer

Grade: XS 5b ***
(Porth Iago)

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