Rockfax Description
To the right of California Wall is a loose disgusting-looking wall. If you go high enough up the base of it you will see an off-width, chimney slot that breaks through it. Having made the harrowing scramble past the base of this crack, make a belay of sorts. The leader now shuffles leftwards to gain the base of the hideous beast and battles upwards. The hope is that the upwards momentum of the climber beats the downwards momentum of the crag. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Follow occasionally orange choss rightward beneath the large and impossing, blue and green back wall of California. Once you've arrived in a towering loose bay, tie to as many blocks as possible (this makes it more awkward for the belayer to leave once the leader sets off). Traverse leftwards across ledges, cleaning as you go, until you arrive at the base of a striking off-width crack. Climb this to the top.

Will Perrin & Dave Rudkin 2000.


Craciau Llydan Gogledd Cymru , Journey Through Welsh Crack Climbing


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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High XS
Mid XS
Low XS
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High 5c
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Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
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Route of Interest

Grade: XS 5b ***
(Cilan Head)

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