Really nice climbing! Climb the short corner to the crux pull for a 'thank god' jug then just romp up to the top.
NB: Rockfall on this route May 06 on easier upper section. Probably no change of grade, but take care.
March 2020: Dangerously loose blocks at half height and near the top (see image). They look like great cam placements, but the cracks expand with cams popping out under bodyweight. A big fall might dislodge one of these huge blocks, wiping out your pro (and your friend). Significant run out middle section without these for protection.
NB: Rockfall on this route May 06 on easier upper section. Probably no change of grade, but take care.
March 2020: Dangerously loose blocks at half height and near the top (see image). They look like great cam placements, but the cracks expand with cams popping out under bodyweight. A big fall might dislodge one of these huge blocks, wiping out your pro (and your friend). Significant run out middle section without these for protection.
M. Garthwaite, G. Szuca, G. Campbell.
Ticklists
Central Belt Extremes , Central Belt - Local Classics , Edinburgh trad progression Hvs, E1 and E2s
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DannyLamby | 11 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: Taken a couple of falls off the crux move, cams in the left slot and the horizontal break, stopped ~5-6ft from the ground. Just putting a cam in the left slot may help preserve the route, not sure about your ankles though | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Taken a couple of falls off the crux move, cams in the left slot and the horizontal break, stopped ~5-6ft from the ground. Just putting a cam in the left slot may help preserve the route, not sure about your ankles though |
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| thomas.innes | 24 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: the rock above the crux move over the roof feels very hollow and like it will possibly break in the future. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: the rock above the crux move over the roof feels very hollow and like it will possibly break in the future. |
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| Devonr28 | 12 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: First E2! Although maybe E1 now with the slightly bigger and lower crimp? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: First E2! Although maybe E1 now with the slightly bigger and lower crimp? |
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| Conormcc1991 | 16 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: I may or may not have pulled the crimp off this route.. Exposing a slightly lower but much better new crimp. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I may or may not have pulled the crimp off this route.. Exposing a slightly lower but much better new crimp. |
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| Chris Cook | 15 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Crimp has broken off but the hold it has left is bigger so now the route out of the roof is a touch easier | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Crimp has broken off but the hold it has left is bigger so now the route out of the roof is a touch easier |
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| Osiris | 16 Jan, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Dangerously loose blocks at half height and near the top (see image). They look like great cam placements, but the cracks expand with cams popping out under bodyweight (it looks and feels ok until is expanded by a cam). A fall might easily dislodge one of these huge blocks, wiping out your pro (and your friend). Avoiding these cracks removes a lot of the good gear options en route. Someone should trundle them. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Dangerously loose blocks at half height and near the top (see image). They look like great cam placements, but the cracks expand with cams popping out under bodyweight (it looks and feels ok until is expanded by a cam). A fall might easily dislodge one of these huge blocks, wiping out your pro (and your friend). Avoiding these cracks removes a lot of the good gear options en route. Someone should trundle them. |
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| andi.sco | 21 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Hold after the crux sounds very hollow and seems to have cracks at the base, take care! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Hold after the crux sounds very hollow and seems to have cracks at the base, take care! |
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Logged Ascents
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Guidebooks for Cambusbarron West Quarry (aka Fourth Quarry)
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Route of Interest
The Return of the King
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Auchinstarry Quarry)