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3 March 2023 update: Peregrines and other seabirds are either prospecting or nesting on this crag.
A temporary ban has been put in place by the National Trust covering the area of cliff between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, so includes all of the major route locations up to and including the America Buttress. Once the exact locations of any nests have been identified, restrictions may be lifted.
from 03/03/0023
30m.
Start as for why not alan and climb to nearly the end of the steep rock section of the groove, move down and right slightly to the foot of a steep wall and move up the wall rightwards to gain a hand ledge. Follow this to a small groove on the edge of the buttress and belay on the slab exit up the steep grass with care.
Luke pavey and alan dovey 10/Oct/2018.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
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Route of Interest
Lotus
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Doyden Point)