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USER ATTENTION
3 March 2023 update: Peregrines and other seabirds are either prospecting or nesting on this crag.
A temporary ban has been put in place by the National Trust covering the area of cliff between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, so includes all of the major route locations up to and including the America Buttress. Once the exact locations of any nests have been identified, restrictions may be lifted.
from 03/03/0023
21m.
Red route in photo.
The first buttress north of Tubby’s Head.
The vague line slightly right of the broken arete.
The least loose of the climbs on this buttress.
Great moves, some powerful, some delicate.
Be careful of rope snagging.
Obviously some loose stuff, it’s end of line greenstone and quartz.
Care needed at the top.
Anchor is stakes way up the hillside.
Above the crag can be super muddy.
The first buttress north of Tubby’s Head.
The vague line slightly right of the broken arete.
The least loose of the climbs on this buttress.
Great moves, some powerful, some delicate.
Be careful of rope snagging.
Obviously some loose stuff, it’s end of line greenstone and quartz.
Care needed at the top.
Anchor is stakes way up the hillside.
Above the crag can be super muddy.
James Cootes 09/Oct/2024.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
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Route of Interest
Saxon
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kenidjack Cliffs)