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3 March 2023 update: Peregrines and other seabirds are either prospecting or nesting on this crag.

A temporary ban has been put in place by the National Trust covering the area of cliff between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, so includes all of the major route locations up to and including the America Buttress. Once the exact locations of any nests have been identified, restrictions may be lifted.

from 03/03/0023

70m. This route takes the solid blank looking rock on the far right side of the mercury area wall, (70m pitch a pre -placed belay rope strongly advised). Abseil in as for bohemian to arrive on the starting sloping platform. Near the bottom of the platform a narrowing in the gap between the platform and the main cliff, allows for a step across to be made at the narrowest part. This is the start and the line continues with interest straight up past small wires and small cams with an unusual pocket (large cam useful), the climbing gets easier towards the top with spaced gear, care required at the top as no belay on reaching the grass! Unless you have a 70m rope the second has to start climbing across the gap ,the leader has to untie and fetch the ab rope which is not advisable. A stake was placed around 2015/16 which maybe in place further up the slope for this purpose.

Luke pavey and Alan dovey 04/Oct/2014.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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Route of Interest
Rainbow Games

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Carn Gowla)

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