Rockfax Description
A spectacularly-positioned top pitch that has a couple of very hard moves in its upper reaches. Start on a low ledge, 10m down and right (facing in) of the ledge at the base of the corner on the left-hand side of Paradise Wall.
1) 6a, 15m. Climb the wall to a good ledge. This pitch is easily avoided by a traverse to the belay from the ledge at the base of the left-hand corner of Paradise Wall.
2) 6b, 40m. Move up to a horizontal break and traverse right to a line of cracks near the arete. Climb the line of cracks, moving right below the first overhang to another crack-line. Powerful and technical climbing through the overhangs and up the headwall lead to the top. © Rockfax
FA. R.Edwards, M.Edwards 30/Jun/1982.
West Country Climbs , Ultimate E5 ticklist , South West in Extremis
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Grade: E5 5c ***
(Carn Gowla)