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183m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine route in a magnificent position. The stances are small and the gear is not always where you want it but the slab is easy-angled and the climbing is generally very straightforward.
1) 30m. Start at the left toe of the protruding buttress to the right of the clean Waved Slab. Follow the edge fairly directly to a small stance.
2) 45m. The same line leads to an even smaller stance by three large blocks.
3) 30m. Continue to the smallest stance just before the slab bends back left.
4) 45m. More good slab climbing leads to a bigger ledge at the top. Exit right at this point or continue via another pitch upwards to reach easy ground and the ridge above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Great worthwhile slab climbing with almost grit-like friction, however protection is sparse. Be careful not to run out of rope since there aren't any defined belay stances. As the guidebook suggests, stick as close as possible to the actual left edge for the best climbing on the most solid rock.

Grid Reference of start of climb SH 62429 62810 (GPS) - Elevation 581m.

Ticklists

A grand easy welsh day out, North Wales Rock Graded List, Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs, Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Mountain Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
Red Rover 7 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Probably not as bold as it's reputation would suggest and the belays are fine. The odd short runout section but for 90% of this route there is plenty of gear if you look for it, maybe it feels bold compared to Little Tryfan or the Idwal Slabs. especially slings and small to medium wires. No way it's a VDiff either, Hard Diff at most.
 
Show beta
βeta: Probably not as bold as it's reputation would suggest and the belays are fine. The odd short runout section but for 90% of this route there is plenty of gear if you look for it, maybe it feels bold compared to Little Tryfan or the Idwal Slabs. especially slings and small to medium wires. No way it's a VDiff either, Hard Diff at most.

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
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Route of Interest

Direct Route

Grade: VD ***
(Milestone Buttress)