UKC Logbook - 'Left Edge'

183m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This magnificent ridge overlooks Waved Slab. It has harder moves than Waved Slab but better gear. The stances are small. Approach by zig-zag up the slope directly below the edge.
1) 30m. The initial right-trending diagonal rib is followed close to its crest to a small stance
2) 45m Carry on up in the same vein to a smaller belay by three blocks.
3) 30m. Continue on to an even smaller stance just before the route cuts back left.
4) 45m. Head up the slab to reach a much more sizeable ledge. Escape to the right is possible here.
5) 60m. Carry on more easily up the narrowing slab which eventually leads to the summit ridge.
Descent - Either head up and left to the summit or descend the ridge rightwards, which eventually leads back down to the drystone wall followed on the approach. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Great worthwhile slab climbing with almost grit-like friction, however protection is sparse. Be careful not to run out of rope since there aren't any defined belay stances. As the guidebook suggests, stick as close as possible to the actual left edge for the best climbing on the most solid rock.

Grid Reference of start of climb SH 62429 62810 (GPS) - Elevation 581m.

Ticklists

A grand easy welsh day out , North Wales Rock Graded List , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Mountain Rock , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , No you're a punter

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User	Date		Notes
Mich Mash	11 Nov	Show βeta βeta: climbed in boots and moved together on the whole pitch till ran out of gear, escaping right at the 'top'. The short 'continuation' slab, which you have to drop down a little to, looked bold and contrived if that is the line. Picked a fun way on slabby boulders instead to the top.
Show beta βeta: climbed in boots and moved together on the whole pitch till ran out of gear, escaping right at the 'top'. The short 'continuation' slab, which you have to drop down a little to, looked bold and contrived if that is the line. Picked a fun way on slabby boulders instead to the top.
FallingBrick	18 Aug	Show βeta βeta: If you decide to descend the NE ridge of Carnedd y Filiast rather than scramble back down to the base of the climb you can pick up a half decent path down to the road from the ruined building (once you get off the initial ridge). Don\'t try a direct descent - steep and deep vegetation. Also on the approach there is a gap in the very high wall pretty much directly below the climb. There is an initial sheepfold on the way up - ignore this and look for a second.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: If you decide to descend the NE ridge of Carnedd y Filiast rather than scramble back down to the base of the climb you can pick up a half decent path down to the road from the ruined building (once you get off the initial ridge). Don't try a direct descent - steep and deep vegetation. Also on the approach there is a gap in the very high wall pretty much directly below the climb. There is an initial sheepfold on the way up - ignore this and look for a second.
Red Rover	7 Sep, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Probably not as bold as it's reputation would suggest and the belays are fine. The odd short runout section but for 90% of this route there is plenty of gear if you look for it, maybe it feels bold compared to Little Tryfan or the Idwal Slabs. especially slings and small to medium wires. No way it's a VDiff either, Hard Diff at most.
Show beta βeta: Probably not as bold as it's reputation would suggest and the belays are fine. The odd short runout section but for 90% of this route there is plenty of gear if you look for it, maybe it feels bold compared to Little Tryfan or the Idwal Slabs. especially slings and small to medium wires. No way it's a VDiff either, Hard Diff at most.